Week 508 · Lake Tekapo · Mt John Observatory · Christchurch & Quake City
Lake Tekapo /
The day started in Lake Tekapo watching the Rugby World Cup — 8am local start time, New Zealand vs South Africa. We watched from our AirBnB as we weren't sure where to go in this little town. We found out later we could have gone pretty much anywhere and the game was on — it is the biggest sporting event for the country and only happens every four years. Heartbreaking loss for the All Blacks — 13-12 — poor guy missed a field goal (what I call it).
We went to the lakefront to find the bluest lake (so they claim) in New Zealand. We scouted out a hike, but upon further research found we could drive most of the way up the mountain to the University of Canterbury Mt John Observatory — an astronomical station that overlooks three lakes and the Southern Alps.
We then drove 3 hours to Christchurch and arrived in time to visit the Quake City museum, which provides the history of the earthquakes in 2010/2011. The city is still recovering — 80% of the central city was destroyed and many gravel parking lots now exist where buildings used to stand. The new construction is well done and the city will ultimately be better, but it will take a while. Visited a couple of different markets and new establishments — still pretty subdued from the rugby loss earlier in the day. Christchurch is a nice place but for most people it is a stop-off going to the Southern Alps.
Christchurch was struck by two devastating earthquakes in quick succession: a magnitude 7.1 in September 2010, which caused widespread damage but no direct fatalities, and a magnitude 6.2 in February 2011, which killed 185 people — New Zealand's deadliest natural disaster in 80 years. The February earthquake was shallower (5km deep vs 10km) and struck at lunchtime when the CBD was busy. Much of the city's Victorian and Edwardian heritage buildings, including the iconic ChristChurch Cathedral, were destroyed or severely damaged. The rebuild has been controversial and slow — the cathedral itself remained under debate for over a decade. An estimated NZ$40 billion was spent on reconstruction, making it one of the most expensive rebuilds per capita in history. A temporary "Cardboard Cathedral" designed by Shigeru Ban opened in 2013 and became an unexpected architectural landmark.
80% of the central city was destroyed. Many gravel parking lots where buildings used to be. The new construction is well done and the city will ultimately be better — but it will take a while. Still pretty subdued from the rugby loss earlier in the day. For most people it is a stop-off on the way to the Southern Alps. I am thinking I will definitely come back to New Zealand — prime spot for a 5–7 day bike ride on off-road trails.
"I am thinking that I will definitely come back to New Zealand — prime spot for a 5–7 day bike ride on off-road trails, similar to the C&O."